The Ultimate BU Style Denim Guide: Fits, Fabric, Care, & Where to Wear Your Jeans
Why Denim Still Rules
We’ll let you in on a little secret: Indiana-raised, both Allison and Natalie are both Midwest at heart—which means a long love story with denim. It’s the fabric that took us from school hallways to city streets, from comfort-first days to “let’s dress this up” moments. And today, denim is still a hero in both our closets. You can take the stylists out of Indiana, but you can’t take Indiana out of the stylists.
At BU Style, we see denim as a great wardrobe chameleon: it adapts to your lifestyle, your career, your social calendar. But we also know denim can be confusing. Fits, washes, selvedge, stretch, rise—there’s a lot of jargon. And then comes the real question: “Are these jeans actually right for me?”
This guide is here to demystify all of it. Think of it as part style dictionary, part strategy session, part love letter to denim.
Denim Terms, Demystified
Denim has its own language, and if you’ve ever stared at a product page wondering what on earth selvedge or sanforized means, you’re not alone. Here’s a breakdown in plain English—plus why each one matters when you’re choosing your next pair.
Denim: A sturdy cotton twill weave where the threads are woven diagonally (that’s why you see little rib lines if you look closely). Traditionally, the lengthwise yarns (warp) are dyed indigo and the crosswise yarns (weft) are left white. That’s what gives denim its signature look: dark on the outside, lighter on the inside.
👉 Why it matters: That white interior is what shows through as jeans fade and whisker over time, creating that lived-in look people love.
Selvedge (“self-edge”): Denim woven on old-school shuttle looms, which produce a tightly finished edge that doesn’t fray. You’ll often see a colored stripe (commonly red) when jeans are cuffed.
👉 Why it matters: Selvedge denim is usually denser, longer-lasting, and considered premium. It’s also a nod to denim heritage—like having a little history woven into your outfit.
Raw vs. Washed:
Raw denim hasn’t been washed or treated after dyeing. It’s stiff at first and molds to your body over time, fading uniquely based on how you live in it.
Washed denim has been softened and pre-treated (stone-washed, enzyme-washed, sandblasted, etc.) to make it comfortable and color-stable right off the rack.
👉 Why it matters: Raw denim is a commitment; you break it in like leather boots. Washed denim is easy and practical for everyday life. Learn all about raw denim in Episode 53 of the Wear Who You Are Podcast, “Party on the Bottom! All Your Denim Questions Answered.”
Sanforized: A pre-shrinking process that stabilizes the fabric. Unsanforized denim (sometimes labeled “shrink-to-fit”) will shrink dramatically the first time it’s washed or soaked.
👉 Why it matters: Unless you’re intentionally chasing that shrink-to-fit journey, sanforized denim is safer. You’ll know your jeans won’t suddenly go from “perfect” to “too small.”
Weight (oz/yd²): Denim weight refers to how heavy the fabric is per square yard.
Lightweight: under 12 oz is soft, easier to move in
Midweight: 12–16 oz is the most versatile, durable, and still wearable year-round
Heavyweight: 16 oz and up is thick, rigid, and often prized by denim enthusiasts who love a long break-in.
👉 Why it matters: Weight affects comfort, drape, and how jeans feel day-to-day. A pair of 10 oz jeans might feel like leggings, while 18 oz raw denim feels almost like armor.
Rise: The rise is where your jeans’ waistband sits on your body, and it makes a big difference in how denim looks and feels.
Low-rise: Sits closer to the hips, visually lengthens the torso, and shifts focus downward. Some love the relaxed vibe; others find it less secure.
Mid-rise: Lands between the hips and the natural waist. Depending on proportions, it can feel balanced and easy — but it isn’t automatically “best” for everyone.
High-rise: Comes up toward or over the natural waist, emphasizing the midsection and often elongating the legs.
As Natalie likes to say: “Wherever the rise goes, the eyes go.” The eye naturally lands at your waistband, so consider how you want to frame your torso, waist, or legs.
Here’s where it gets tricky: brands label rise differently. What one calls “mid-rise” at 10 inches, another may label as “high-rise” at 10 or 11. Instead of relying only on marketing terms, measure a pair you love (crotch seam to top of waistband) and use that number as your personal benchmark.
✨ BU Style Insight: Knowing your rise number helps you shop smarter across brands, avoiding the disappointment of a “high rise” that doesn’t feel high enough (or a “mid” that cuts too low). In the BU Style Circle, we offer a sizing guide resource for you to record your measurements.
👉 Want more on this? Natalie digs into rise and fit strategies on the Wear Who You Are podcast. Check out Episode #41: “How do I find affordable, ethical clothing? Plus, settling the denim-rise debate” for a deeper dive.
Denim Shapes & How They Work
You may hear the word “silhouette” when talking about style. When we talk about “silhouettes” in denim, we’re really just describing the shape of the leg—or how your jeans fall from your hip down to your shoes. Each shape creates a slightly different effect, which can highlight certain features, balance proportions, or downplay areas you don’t want in the spotlight. Think of it as the role your jeans play in your overall look.
Straight: Runs evenly from hip to hem, like a clean vertical line. A great shape when you want a timeless, balanced look that doesn’t highlight one feature over another.
Slim: Follows your natural leg line without squeezing. It adds gentle definition and keeps outfits looking neat while still easy to move in.
Skinny: Snug from thigh to ankle. This cut puts curves and leg shape front and center and works especially well when you want your shoes to pop.
Tapered: Roomier at the thigh but narrows toward the ankle. It gives comfort up top while creating a more tailored feel at the bottom, drawing attention to footwear. (Similar to a barrel or balloon leg but more tailored.)
Wide-leg: Flows straight down with extra volume, adding movement and drama. Wide-legs can spotlight the waist (especially if you tuck in a shirt) or skim over the hips and thighs if you’d rather not draw attention there.
Flare / Bootcut: Slim through the thigh, then widens below the knee. The flare balances proportions and creates that long-leg illusion, especially with a heel.
Barrel / Balloon: Fuller in the middle of the leg, then tucks back in at the ankle. These jeans make the shape itself the star and are great if you want the denim to be your statement piece. It’s also great to highlight a narrow waist.
Cropped: Stops above the ankle, regardless of leg shape. It lightens the overall look and shines a spotlight on your shoes.
Rise (low, mid, high): Simply how high the waistband sits. Higher rises emphasize the waist and lengthen legs, while lower rises create a longer-looking torso. Mid-rise usually feels the most balanced and natural.
✨ BU Style Insight: Each silhouette has its own “behavior”: some highlight curves, some balance out proportions, some keep things streamlined. None is better or worse; they’re just different ways of shaping the story your jeans tell.
What’s on the Tag? Your Denim Fiber Content Guide
That tiny label tells you what to expect from your jeans—how they’ll feel, move, and wear over time. Here’s how to read it like a pro:
100% Cotton
Feel: Structured, crisp, trouser-like.
Wear: Molds to your body over time and develops authentic fades—the “denim head” dream. Won’t bag out dramatically, but does soften and relax in spots.
Fit tip: Buy true to size, maybe a touch snug at first. They’ll mold to you.
Cotton + 1–2% Elastane
Feel: Just enough stretch for comfort without becoming leggings.
Wear: Moves with you but will relax about half a size, especially in skinnies.
Fit tip: Size down if they feel comfortably snug. They’ll give with wear.
Cotton + Polyester + Elastane
Feel: Smoother, stretchier.
Wear: Polyester helps jeans bounce back, so you get fewer saggy knees and seat.
Fit tip: Stick with your true size. These keep their shape better than pure cotton stretch.
Cotton + Lyocell/Modal (TENCEL™)
Feel: Drapier, softer, often cooler on skin.
Wear: Fluid look, but can loosen over time since recovery isn’t as strong.
Fit tip: If between sizes, go down. They’ll relax with wear.
Cotton + Hemp
Feel: Strong yet lightweight, with a slightly textured hand feel that softens beautifully.
Wear: Durable, softens with washes, holds structure—doesn’t really sag.
Fit tip: Buy your true size; no stretch tricks here.
Recycled Cotton Blends
Feel: Varies depending on blend ratios; similar to cotton, sometimes a bit rougher.
Wear: If elastane is added, expect stretch; if not, they’ll act like rigid cotton.
Fit tip: Check the tag: if there’s elastane, consider sizing down; if not, go true to size.
✨ BU Style Insight: No fiber is “best.” It’s about intention:
Structure: Go for rigid cotton.
Comfort: Elastane blends are your friend.
Softness & flow: Look for Lyocell/Modal.
Longevity & eco: Hemp or recycled blends shine.
🪑 Not sure if you are buying the right size? Try the Sit Test:
If you like a more fitted denim, when in doubt, button your jeans and sit down. If you can breathe comfortably and nothing digs in too harshly, that snug fit is exactly what you want. Tailored or fitted denim should feel a little tight at first. If they’re loose while standing, you’ll likely be swimming in them by day three.
Denim Washes & Finishes
When you hear “wash” in denim, it doesn’t just mean how you launder your jeans at home. In the industry, wash refers to the treatment denim goes through after it’s woven and dyed. The wash determines the final color, softness, and overall vibe of the jeans.
Dark rinse (or raw): Deep, saturated indigo, often crisp and structured. Feels more polished.
Medium wash: Worn-in blue, softer, versatile for day or evening, depending on styling.
Light wash: Pale, sun-faded look. Relaxed and casual.
Black or gray wash: Sulfur-dyed denim that gives a sleek look.
Colored washes: Denim dyed or overdyed in colors beyond blue or black.
A finish is all the extra detailing added to the jeans to create texture, patterns, or a “lived-in” effect. Finishes change how casual or dressy jeans feel.
Whiskering: Faint lines across the hips, mimicking natural creases.
Fading / Honeycombs: Lightened areas at the thighs, knees, or back of the legs.
Distressing: Small abrasions, fraying, or sanding to soften denim.
Destruction: Holes, rips, or heavy wear patterns
Raw hem: A cut edge left to fray naturally.
Contrast stitching: Yellow, tan, or colored thread that makes the seams stand out.
✨ BU Style Insight: Wash sets the mood of the jeans (dark = dressier, light = casual). Finish adds the personality (clean = polished, distressed = relaxed). Together, they decide how your jeans read in any setting.
Denim Care: Wash Less, Wash Smart
We’re denim nerds, but we’re also realists: jeans need care that fits your life. Whether you’re a raw denim purist or just trying to keep your favorite black skinnies from fading, these are our golden rules:
1. Spot Clean First: Most of the time, you don’t need to toss jeans in the wash just because of a small mark. Use a damp cloth, mild soap, or even a soft toothbrush to gently clean a spot.
👉 Resource: Hiut Denim’s Care Guide explains simple spot-cleaning tricks that extend your jeans’ lifespan.
2. Wash Every 10(ish) Wears (or When Truly Dirty): Yes, you read that right. Most denim only needs a wash after 8–10 wears—or sooner if they’re visibly dirty or start to smell. Washing too often breaks down the fibers and fades color prematurely.
👉 Resource: Levi’s Official Care Guide recommends the same: less washing, more wearing.
3. Cold Water, Inside Out, Gentle Cycle: Turn jeans inside out to protect the indigo dye. Cold water helps maintain color and prevent shrinkage. Use a gentle detergent (skip bleach or fabric softeners, which weaken fibers).
👉 Resource: Whirlpool’s Washing Guide offers detailed wash methods, especially for denim fans.
4. Always Air Dry: Heat is denim’s worst enemy. Tumble dryers shrink fibers, break down stretch, and speed up fading. Instead, hang jeans by the waistband or lay them flat to air dry. If you’re worried about stiffness, give them a shake or smooth with your hands before hanging.
5. Skip the Freezer Myth: Freezing jeans doesn’t actually kill bacteria; it just makes them dormant until warmed up again. If jeans smell, they need a wash. (Yes, we were disappointed to read this myth-buster, too!)
👉 Resource: The Cleveland Clinic breaks down why the myth doesn’t work.
6. Special Care for Raw Denim: Raw denim is like a long-term project. To maintain unique fades, hand-soak in cold water with a tiny bit of mild detergent, then hang dry by the waistband. Don’t wring or twist, which can leave creases.
👉 Resource: Asket breaks it all down for you
Washing your denim less not only preserves your jeans, but it also saves water and energy. Levi’s lifecycle analysis found that consumer care (washing and drying) is one of the biggest environmental impacts of denim. So yes, by washing less, you’re helping both your closet and the planet.
When (and Where) to Wear Denim: A Professional Woman’s Guide
Denim may be versatile, but context matters. What works for Saturday brunch doesn’t always fly on Monday morning. The trick is knowing how to match your jeans to the formality of the setting.
Natalie’s grandma used to say that “dressy denim” wasn’t a thing. Well, it’s not her grandma’s rules anymore. Today, denim can look sharp enough for an office meeting—or casual enough for a weekend concert—if you pick the right wash, fit, and styling.
Business Formal Offices (and Casual Fridays in Those Offices)
In industries like finance, law, and other traditional corporate settings, denim is not appropriate for day-to-day wear. Full stop. Most dress codes here still expect trousers, suits, or dresses.
The one exception? Casual Fridays. And even then, jeans must be carefully chosen:
Stick to: Dark rinse or black jeans, no fading, distressing, or fraying. The silhouette should be structured (slim, straight, or trouser-like).
Pair with: A blazer, a button-down or silk blouse, and polished shoes. Think “jeans that look like they could almost be trousers.”
Avoid: Light washes, trendy silhouettes, or anything with holes.
Example: Black slim-straight jeans with a forest green blazer and loafers. Still professional, just a touch more relaxed.
Business Casual (and Casual Fridays in Corporate)
Most modern offices fall into this zone, where jeans are SOMETIMES welcome but expectations vary. The best approach? Ask directly or look around at what leaders wear. If jeans are acceptable in your “Business Casual” dress code . . .
Stick to: Dark to medium washes, minimal fading, and finished hems. Most silhouettes with clean lines work if the outfit feels intentional.
Pair with: Cardigans, polished knits, structured blouses, or sport coats. If you are wearing jeans in a business casual setting, you may want to avoid wearing sneakers and opt for a loafer, ballet flat, boot, or derby.
Avoid: Distressing, ripped knees, or saggy silhouettes.
Example: Mid-wash, wide-leg jeans with a tucked-in blouse and block heels for an office-ready look that’s comfortable but polished.
Smart Casual
Smart casual is that middle ground where jeans are not only allowed but expected—think networking events, dinners, or offices that want polish without stiffness.
Stick to: Dark or black denim, clean finishes, no rips.
Pair with: A blazer, knit jacket, or elevated top with loafers, heels, sleek boots, or non-athletic sneaker
Avoid: Light washes or heavy fading, which tilts the look too casual.
Example: Dark straight-leg jeans, tucked blouse, heeled boots = smart casual done right.
Creative, Tech, or Media Workplaces
In creative environments, denim isn’t just accepted—it’s often the uniform. Here, your jeans can help communicate individuality, confidence, and your point of view.
Lean into personality: Try fashion-forward silhouettes, cropped hems, wide-legs, or even a well-placed rip or raw edge if it feels like you.
Play with wash and finish: Light washes, vintage fades, or unique textures can read as modern and intentional when styled thoughtfully.
Elevate with styling: Pair denim with a structured blazer, crisp shirt, or a standout sneaker/boot — these touches keep your look professional while leaving room for creativity.
Know the line: There’s a difference between “artfully distressed” and “sloppy.” Jeans that are sagging, shredded, or look like weekend yardwork still undercut the authority you want in the workplace.
✨ BU Style Insight: Think of your jeans as a canvas. In creative fields, they don’t just cover your legs, they help tell your story.
Social & Weekend Settings
This is denim’s playground—almost anything goes, depending on the vibe.
Dinner out: Black wide-leg jeans with a silk blouse and heels can look as polished as trousers.
Concert or weekend event: Faded jeans with a vintage tee and boots—comfortable and cool.
Weddings or formal events: Unless the invite explicitly says so, denim doesn’t make the cut.
✨ BU Style Insight: A simple rule of thumb: the darker, cleaner, and more structured the jeans, the more formal they read. The lighter, looser, or more distressed, the more casual.
Want to go deeper? We wrote a full guide on how to navigate dress codes at work that expands on these nuances and shows you exactly how to read the room.
What jeans are in right now?
Here’s the truth: there isn’t one single answer—because “in” depends on you. Wide-legs, flares, relaxed fits, and even skinnies can all be current when styled with intention. The better question is: what’s right for your setting, your style, and your fit goals?
Your setting: Corporate office? Dark, clean denim always reads polished. Creative space? Trend-forward shapes work beautifully. Weekend? Anything goes.
Your personal style: Minimalist, bold, classic, modern—your denim should feel like an extension of who you are.
Your fit goals: Do you want to highlight your waist, balance proportions, or keep things streamlined? The “right” jean is the one that does the job you want it to.
We understand many of you want to stay modern—and that’s exactly why we’re here. But often, it’s less about buying into the newest micro-trend and more about how you style your denim or making small updates (like trying a fresh wash or a slightly different rise). Staying current isn’t about chasing fast fashion; it’s about intentional choices that keep your wardrobe evolving without losing its foundation.
Trends will cycle, but well-chosen denim never goes out of style.
👉 To make it even easier, we maintain a BU Style Denim Catalog—a constantly updated guide with our vetted recommendations and tips to help you shop smarter.
Final Word from Your Personal Stylists
At BU Style, we see denim as the fabric of everyday life. It can be relaxed, refined, or bold, depending on what you need. There’s no “right” pair, only the one that feels right for you.
And if the denim wall still makes your head spin, you don’t have to figure it out alone. We’d love to support you—whether that’s through our resources and monthly calls in BU Style Circle, a 1-on-1 Wardrobe Session, or a full Strategize, Shop, Style experience.
Because in the end, denim should help you feel at ease, express yourself, and enjoy getting dressed.
Your Denim Resource Hub
🛍️ Strategize & Shop
BU Style denim shopping guide (updated regularly)
Join BU Style Circle for more resources and stylist support
🎧 Listen
“Party on the Bottom! All of Your Denim Questions Answered!” Episode 53, Wear Who You Are Podcast
“How do I find affordable, ethical clothing? Plus, settling the denim-rise debate. . .,” Episode 41, Wear Who You Are Podcast
💦 Care Guides